Nov
26
I hope everyone has had a wonderful Thanksgiving! Despite not eating Turkey, I had an enjoyable Thanksgiving. A group of us went to a nice restaurant and shared a nice meal together. We even went around the table saying what we are thankful for! It was great to share this not only with other Americans, but to introduce the holiday to some of our other exchange friends.
About a week ago we had a week off from school for what is known as Bayram (it is basically a general term for a religious holiday). This particular Bayram was in honor of family and friends who had passed away. Generally, everyone goes home and spends the week with their family. One of my exchange friends, Memik, a Turkish guy from Germany, invited me as well as two others, Julien, and Kyo, to spend the week with his extended in Gaziantep. Gaziantep is known for the role it played in World War I in preventing the French from taking over the region (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaziantep). Gaziantep is a city of about one million located in southeastern Turkey, approximately thirty minutes north of Syria. By bus it takes nearly eighteen hours from Istanbul. We opted to fly there instead which took a mere hour and a half! When we arrived in Gaziantep I knew we were in a different world. There was hardly any traffic noise, the sun was much brighter, and the air, since we were in a deserty area, much more dusty. Memik and his cousin met us at the airport, excited to introduce us to a new city and culture. As we drove towards the city center, I laughed when I saw a rather large bull standing in the bed of someone’s truck. Memik explained that it was customary on the first day of Bayram, which was the following day, to sacrifice and cook either a bull or sheep. In certain neighborhoods all over Gaziantep, you could see sheep being sold and carried home. It was quite the sight!
Gaziantep is famous for its cuisine. Ask any Turk and they will tell you that Gaziantep has the best kepab and Baklava in all of Turkey. We were all hungry, so Memik and his cousin took us to this small restaurant in the middle of a park. We were served chicken kepab wrapped in a thick bread called pide. It was incredible! I practically inhaled the sandwich. The rest of the day we wandered the city, the Gaziantep castle, and the old bazaar. In the bazaar we discovered an old Ottoman hotel that had been converted to a cafe. In the middle of the cafe there was a large platform covered in carpet with pillows and cushions set all around to act as seats. We came back that night and enjoyed some of the best nargile I had ever had!
The next day was the first day of Bayram and the city seemed like a ghost town compared to the previous day. Memik took us to his uncle’s countryside home where we spent the afternoon learning to play the Turkish domino game ‘okey’. That evening, Memik’s family invited us to share dinner with them for the first night of Bayram. It was such a treat to see at least three generations of Memik’s family gathered around! As we entered the house, we were greeted with great big smiles, hugs, and kisses. If I hadn’t known better I would have thought I was Memik’s long lost cousin! We all sat in the living room as the family gathered around, curious about us. Some of Memik’s family members had never met anyone from another country. I think it was a treat for me as well as the family. I practiced the little Turkish I knew and blushed whenever I could not understand something. Everyone was very patient, especially Memik’s mother, coming all the way from Germany. She spoke slowly and clearly. Speaking with her I felt like an expert in Turkish! As we waited for dinner the women in Memik’s family invited me into the kitchen to watch them make homemade çiğ köfte (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chee_kufta). Traditionally, çiğ köfte is made with raw meat, however it is illegal to sell it with raw meat in shops and restaurants. So, the only way to eat authentic çiğ köfte is to have someone make it in their home. Well, I was lucky enough to do that. I watched Memik’s aunt mix, by hand, meat and spices in a large vat! All the women watched my face as I smiled and took pictures. Dinner was soon brought out: sheep, killed that day, and çiğ köfte. It was wonderful! As guests we were served first, then the oldest to the youngest man. It was interesting to see the more traditional and formal side of Turkish culture, especially within a family setting. We spent the rest of the evening chatting with Memik’s large family. They asked us about family life in our countries and we asked about their’s. At the end of the night we took a group picture. It was such a treat to be welcomed into a family with open arms and experience their traditions.
The next day in Gaziantep, was even better! We woke up early and enjoyed a typical Gaziantep breakfast of soup! I had never had soup for breakfast but it was a delicious surprise. After breakfast we headed out of Birecik and Halfetti. First was Birecik, a small town about an hour outside of Gaziantep. In Birecik I certainly felt like I was in the near east. It was dusty, crowded, and exhilarating. We climbed a cliff containing old castle ruins. The ruins were run down but an amazing site to see. Climbing the dusty cliff was quite a feat. It was steep and a few times I slipped. At the top we explored and admired the view. After, we made our way down, stopping at a freshwater fountain to clean off. The water was cool and incredibly clear- very refreshing after climbing in the heat. After Birecik we went to Halfetti, the birthplace of Memik’s grandparents and a small town along the Euphrates river. The small town looked majestic as we drove towards it, nestled perfectly along the Euphrates. Halfetti was partially flooded a few years before to support a new dam. Near the shore line you can see the tops of houses and even a mosque! In Halfetti we went to Memik’s grandfather’s childhood home which had been converted into a lovely restaurant by the Euphrates. After lunch came the highlight of the entire trip.
All of us boarded a small boat and began a tour of the timeless Euphrates. I could not stop smiling and I nearly cried at the thought of traveling along a river which has supported some of the most influential ancient civilizations. For me it was equivalent to seeing the pyramids of Egypt. Something I had studies since primary school, I never would have imagined that I would ever step foot into where ancient Mesopotamia once lied. The waters were clear and as I touched the water as we floated along I soaked in the experience. Towards the end of the boat trip we climbed up a large cliff to Rumkale, meaning Roman Castle in Turkish. It was a fortress used by both Byzantines and Armenians. From the top, the Euphrates seemed to stretch on forever. We lingered for about an hour; none of us could stop taking pictures of this natural beauty.
After our journey of the Euphrates we headed back to Gaziantep. For dinner we ate something quite unsual, Paça Çorbası. It is a soup made from the brain and tongue of a sheep. I asked for only ‘normal’ meat in mine, but after admitting I liked the taste, Memik and his cousin confessed to me that I was enjoying tongue! I must confess that it was rather tasty.
The next day was relaxed and we went to the Mosiac Museum displaying mosaics from the ancient city, Zeugma, located near present day Gaziantep. The following morning, our last day, we enjoyed a large Turkish breakfast, complete with soup, fresh cheese, and olives, with Memik’s family.
I really enjoyed seeing another part of Turkey where life seemed much different than in Istanbul, however I realized that I was now beginning to consider Istanbul home! Coming back to the large, crowded city, was oddly relaxing and comforting. I was home.
Nov
14
Since school has started things have been quite hectic for me here. Lots of reading and lots of activities! There is one group on campus here at Bogazici, the Erasmus Student Network, which caters specifically to Erasmus and exchange students. During the first month of school they have organized several events for us, one being a weekend trip to the Black Sea region of Turkey. We went to the towns of Safranbolu (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safranbolu), famous for its saffron Turkish Delight and Ottoman architecture, and Amasra, an incredibly beautiful town along the Black Sea. The trip was incredible! We ate lunch at the old Safranbolu caravansary and went to hear Turkish music at night, where I learned to dance the Halay, a traditional Turkish dance. In Amasra, we wondered the small picturesque town which sits calmly along the Black Sea. We were lucky enough to take a boat ride which cost only 4 Liras! It was absolutely breathtaking. As I sat at the bow of the boat the sun gleamed and the waves crashed into the surrounding cliffs. Going back to chaotic Istanbul was slightly sad, I had loved the time in the peaceful Black Sea region!
A week later was Turkish Republic Day! It celebrates when Turkey became an independent republic under Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. As I wondered the city, I had never seen so many national flags displayed! Every shop, building, and school proudly displayed the red and white banner. That night, a group of us went to Besiktas to watch the yearly fireworks display. The fireworks are shot from four different locations along the Bosphorous. As we looked across the Bosphorous to Asia, we saw one of the most incredible firework shows any in our group had ever seen! Brilliant colors from all angles illuminated a clear sky. All of us were awestruck. It was truly wonderful to join in with Turkish people, as well as others from around the world, to celebrate their national holiday.
As I said earlier, ESN has been so great at organizing events for the exchange students. This past Thursday they held a traditional Fasil Night. A Fasil Night consists of mezes (Turkish h’ordeuvres),Raki (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rak%C4%B1). and of course, lots of dancing. The night began with eating and sipping Raki, which I personally do not care for. It is an alcoholic beverage heavily flavored with anise. I have never been a fan of licorice so Raki, while ok in small doses, was not my favorite drink of the night. After we ate and sipped our Raki, we commenced dancing to traditional Turkish music. We all crowded together singing and dancing! The night did not end until about 2am!
This next week is a Turkish religious holiday, or Bayram. We have the whole week off from school, so I will be traveling to Gaziantep and Urfa in southeastern Turkey, both cities famous for their cuisine. An exchange friend of mine has family there, so I, with two other exchange students from France and Japan, will stay and tour the city with their family. I cannot wait to see how people from the complete opposite side of Turkey live, and how it compares to life in Istanbul!
I will be sure and write about my next adventures soon! Görüşürüz!
Nov
7
Sorry for the delay in posting, things here have been so hectic an busy that I have not had the chance to write much. Here is my entry about my first few weeks at school and in Istanbul. Enjoy!
What an incredible week and a half I have had! I have journeyed to Asia, began a hectic week at school, and visited one of the most charming fishing villages I have ever seen.
The Friday before school began, a group of exchange and Erasmus students decided to go to the Spice Bazaar in Sultanahamet, and then, to take a ferry to the Asian side of Istanbul. We met in Sultanahmet early afternoon. We were a rather diverse group, representing the United States, France, Spain, Austria, and Germany! We were all hungry, and my French friend, Eloise, had a rather wonderful idea for lunch. On the edge of the water, in Sultanahmet, there were several, ridiculously gaudy boats bouncing in the waves, with signs advertising Balik Ekmek. Translated literally as ‘fish bread’, these fish sandwiches cost a mere four lira! To order you must choose a boat, walk up and order. They quickly assemble the sandwich made of fish, lettuce, and onions. Once you have been handed your Balik Ekmek, you then go sit at these small tables with stools which seemed to have been built for a hobbit! As our big group sat by the water, with waves splashing all around, we enjoyed our delicious lunch. The taste of fresh fish, and the view of the Bosphorous and Yeni Camii (New Mosque) made a perfect and interesting lunch.
After our bellies were full, we made our way to the Spice Bazaar, known in Turkish as the Misir, or Egyptian Bazaar. The covered pavilion was filled with booths carrying an array of spices, teas, and various Turkish candies. The smells of the various confections were wonderful! However, after seeing the hectic souqs of Fez and Marrakech, the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul appeared organized and tame in comparison. It was still an enjoyable experience and I managed to walk away with a gorgeous pashmina (I managed to bargain the price down from 20 lira to 15!).
After our adventure into the Bazaar, we decided we would go to Uskudar on the Asian side of Istanbul. The ferry cost a mere lira and a half! I never thought it would be so cheap to go from Europe to Asia! Our ferry took us to Haydarpaşa, an amazingly gorgeous train station built in 1872. Fr0m Haydarpaşa, Kate, Eloise, and I were not exactly sure how to make it to Uskudar, so we put my Turkish to the test and I asked a taxi driver. We were amazed that he gave us a free ride to the bus station bound for Uskudar! From the bus station we traveled to Uskudar. Our original plan had been to climb to the top of a hill in Uskudar known for its beautiful view of Istanbul. But alas, none of us knew how to get there. We settled with exploring. As we strolled along the streets, we stumbled upon a gorgeous mosque close to the pier, built in honor of the Valide Sultan (mother of the sultan), Emetullah Gülnuş. As we walked into the mosque, all three of us were unsure, since we were not Muslims, if we were allowed to enter. As we walked into the gardens of the mosque and up the stairs towards the entrance, a woman approached us. She pointed at our faces and muttered some words in Turkish. At first we thought maybe we could not enter the mosque, then we we figured maybe we needed to cover our shoulders. After many shoulder shrugs and laughter, we finally understood her words. As she pointed to our eyes she kept repeating,”Çok güzel”, which means very beautiful. What we thought had been a warning was actually a sweet compliment! We all smiled and thanked the woman. We preceded to the main part of the mosque which contained a gorgeous ablutions fountain in the center. It was late afternoon so the light caught the intricate carving and iron work in the fountain beautifully. We lingered a few minutes and watched as a few worshipers came in to wash there hands and feet. After seeing the mosque, with the sun setting, we decided it was time to head back to Europe. The last two days of summer vacation were relaxed, as I awaited the start of school eagerly.
The first week was a bit of a mess. I had four classes but ended up having to change two. I had originally enrolled in the second level of Turkish since I was already knew basic grammar, but I was shocked to discover that Beginning Turkish II was taught almost entirely in Turkish! So after speaking with the professor, I decided that I would benefit more from Beginning Turkish I. I feel a bit defeated for having to be in the first level, considering I worked very hard over the summer to acquire some of the language. However, I know I will learn more and be stronger in my Turkish ability with this course. My favorite class, unexpectedly, was my Islamic Art and Architecture course. The professor is wonderful and reminds me of many OU professors. I am really lucky that I will not have any classes on Friday, which will be perfect for weekends I decide to travel.
On Thursday, actually my ‘Friday’, a group of exchange and Turkish students rented a boat to take an evening cruise along the Bosphorous. The Bosphorous by night is breathtaking! The lights of the bridges lit up the Bosphorous beautifully as we sailed by.
The next day, on Friday, Eloise and I decided to go to northern Istanbul to the black sea. The small little town we went to is known as Rumeli Feneri. It was so beautiful and calm sitting by the black sea, undisturbed by the traffic and busyness of central Istanbul. Eloise had read that it was famous for its fish, so when we stepped off the bus we began wondering on the streets in search of fish. We stumbled upon this nice little restaurant overlooking the black sea and all the local fishing boats. We decided to order Balik Iskender or Fish Iskender. It was incredible! A mix of fish, tomatoes, thinly sliced potatos, and Turkish yogurt made for one perfect meal. After we finished and sipped some tea, we decided to wonder to the old fortress on the northern part of town. The fortress was incredible, built onto the rocky cliff overlooking the wavy black sea. Eloise and I explored and climbed up into the fort, stopping to sit and watch small fishing boats pass by. Rumeli Feneri was wonerful, I hope in the spring semester to go back when the weather is warmer, it would be the perfect place for a picnic! As the late afternoon approached, we headed back into the hustle and bustle of Istanbul.
Nov
5
Before I had even left the states to study abroad I knew that I wanted to spend my 21st birthday in Ireland for a few reasons, 1. because I’d never been and it was the top of the list of places I wanted to go, 2. because it actually matters at some of the bars in the Temple Bar section whether or not you are 21 so I might actually get carded, and 3. my family is Irish which has made me familiar with the country since I was little and had a soft spot for it!
We woke up early on Friday and took a plane from Pisa to Dublin and arrived at 8:40am. Instead of staying in a hostel, I found an apartment for the 5 of us to stay in which was so much nicer and more fun for my birthday and also my roommate Alison, whose birthday was the day before mine.
The first thing we did after checking in was visit the Guiness Factory which was down the street. Like I said in my Munich post, I’m not exactly a big beer fan, let alone Guiness the darkest beer out there! But it was not bad and for the experience you obviously have to have one. The tour was huge and showed how it was made, the history, how to pour a proper pint, and then a great rooftop bar overlooking all of Dublin. We had fun sitting around up there and got some great advice from the workers there on where to eat and what to do. They told us that the best fish and chips in all of Dublin were right down the street from our apartment and also to go visit a small fishing village outside Dublin called Howth if we wanted to experience the real Dublin like people picture.
Next we got some food and did a little wandering around the Christchurch area and Trinity College. After, since we’d had a long day of travel, we just sat in our apartment appreciating couches (we don’t have any in our apartment at home) and american television… in english! Watching friends and drinking Dr. Pepper may have been one of the biggest highlights of the weekend….
That night we went down to Grafton Street which I had heard is supposed to be the big pub scene with typical irish people but I was sorely disappointed. Most of the “typical pubs” turned out to be clubs and they were full of lots of old people…. who weren’t even Irish!! We had fun anyways and I did find a nice Irish couple that Alison and I were able to chat with for awhile that was fun, but we decided we needed a new location the next evening for our birthday celebration.
In the morning Alison and I went to get breakfast and found bagels! Something I had not even realized I missed. They were delicious and we sat drinking hot chocolate for awhile deciding what to do with our day. This was actually Alison’s birthday so we had to make it special. We headed back to the hotel, got ready and then headed out to the bus station to go to Howth. Along the way we were not sure where we were so we stopped and chatted with a sweet little Irish lady who gave us even more great information about the best ways to get there, where to go when we got there and even told us some cute stories. The irish hospitality was really unbelievable, the next day we had 2 different people give up their places in a starbucks so that the 5 of us could sit together!
We drove along the coast on a double decker bus out to Howth and got out at the port. We walked along the water and what did we see but several sea lions! They were playing and looking at the people on the dock. They were so cute! We walked to the end and took some pictures and then it was lunch time. We went into this little restaurant called the Oar House not expecting much because it didn’t look to crowded or fancy, but on the inside it was so cute and full of people! It worked out perfectly because apparently you need reservations to eat there, but they just so happened to have one 4 person table left just for us!
I ate the more fresh and delicious salmon for lunch as well as oysters with Alison. AND! The water was even free, with ice, and free refills! This is a big deal in Europe! After finishing one of the best lunches I’ve ever eaten we went to the tourist office and got a map of hiking the cliffs.
I didn’t exactly realize we were going to be hiking on scary tiny paths along steep cliffs that day, so I was wearing my heeled boots that are several inches high. It was a bit scary, and not the most comfortable, but you sort of forget about pains and scaredness when you turn around and see beautiful cliffs, hills, old walls, and green just all around you. It was truly breathtaking and something I’ll never forget. It was also a very long hike and we needed to meet up with our fifth friend that came with us so we had to book it for the last kilometer or so which was a little on the scary side!
We got to the end of the trail, found the bus and just collapsed on the way back because we were so mentally and physically exhausted. We started chatting and laughing about the silliest things and being the one thing I seriously try to avoid being…. loud americans, but sometimes it is unavoidable when something is funny enough! I had been laughing till I cried about silly little comments Bevy had been making about a “swamp” that was outside the window and eventually everyone joined in. Taylor said she heard an irish man behind us say, do you think they’re drunk? By george it’s only 2pm! Obviously we were deliriously tired so we got back and took a long break before going to dinner.
For dinner we got chinese food which was the first I’ve had since leaving the US and it was pretty good! We had a good time talking about our days adventures and Alison’s birthday, then we went home and got changed to go out and celebrate my 21st and Alison’s 22nd. My mom had sent me a large Happy Birthday banner, a black and gold boa and an obnoxiously huge crown to wear on my birthday, so I pulled them all out, hung up the banner, put on my outfit and headed to temple bar.
We first went to the actual Temple Bar and it was packed! We had fun just pushing through to the bar, getting a beer and then finding a place to stand. As we passed we met a lot of people from all over the world. Obviously when you’re wearing a huge crown that says 21 on it people notice and start conversation so that was fun and interesting!
As it got closer to midnight we moved to a different pub with a live band and I had my first official drink of my 21st birthday which was a beer…. who could believe it?! The band played lots of songs we knew and we had a lot of fun watching them and chatting until the place closed at 2 and we went to sleep.
On our last day, and my birthday, we had to wait till 12 to get any of the things we wanted done because it was Sunday and nothing was open! First we had the best fish and chips of all time, they were sooo greasy but amazingly good! Then we toured Christchurch which I loved! I had been getting a little sick of the Italian churches lately. Finally we went to Trinity College where I was able to go to the Library and see the Book of Kells!! This was a big deal for me since I did so much research on illuminated manuscript last semester so I spent probably a solid 20 minutes just staring at the pages they had open. The ticket also let us into the library above which was seriously the most beautiful library I’ve ever seen!
We still had a few hours left so we went to Starbucks and then I bought the book Pillars of the Earth because I have been talking to my dad about reading it for some time now and with all of the focus on cathedrals now. After the past 2 weeks of traveling I am through 740 of the 1100 pages if that tells you how much time we spend on the road!
Leaving Dublin was depressing because it is just never enough time but I was comforted by the fact that I would spend the next weekend in Scotland which should be equally beautiful!
Nov
2
As I was attempting to eavesdrop on a conversation between two ladies on a long bus ride a few weekends back (They were talking rather loudly, and I didn’t understand enough of it to warrant any shame, anyway. ), I started thinking about the rhythm of the Spanish language. English keeps to a fairly regular iambic pentameter (thank you, Shakespeare), but Spanish can somehow roll on and on. I listened for awhile, and pinned the rhythm as something like repeating triplets — a Spanish 6/8 rather than an English 4/4. Spanish is a beautiful language to listen to, and I think rhythm plays an important role.
The rhythm of life here in Spain has been quite an adjustment. I came wanting and expecting a change in pace. That change has gone beyond my to-do lists and appointment book. The change in rhythm has had more of an effect on me. It’s easy enough to change my pace — to fall into step with someone walking faster or slower, to fill up my schedule with rest and relaxation, to be intentional with fewer people — but to step back, regroup, and attempt to join in a different rhythm of speech, time, priorities, and relationship is something entirely different. It’s as though I’m a metronome being adjusted for an entirely new piece. Even a couple months into this thing I still wouldn’t say I’ve wholly adjusted, and doubt whether I ever could. However, I am thriving in the attempt to change my inner rhythm and still laugh at failures. When I was first trying to jump into the rhythm of the language, I had a conversation with a man at a sports complex near our apartment. My initial thought was that I just needed to speak as quickly as my Southern tongue would allow. He laughed and stopped me, saying, “Slow down, slow down. You’re not in a hurry.” Turns out that was great advice beyond rolling my Rs. I’m not sure why I felt the need to rush the transition into the Spanish rhythm. It’s a process, and half the fun is confronting new ways of thinking and new patterns of life with my trite ol’ paradigms. One of my favorite things about life is transforming my thinking and the subsequent growth from such a change. All that remains now is to keep absorbing change until I find that the new rhythm is as natural as the old.
Subscribe by Email
Completely spam free, opt out any time.
This form is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
